
Day 3
It was the first of our day tours. I had booked the Great Ocean Road daytrip with Melbourne Private Tours, & this turned out to be the best daytrip in my opinion. Our guide John is a 66 years old Melbournian retiree who could not stand sitting around the house for more than a week, & so had taken up the job of being a tour guide.
John arrived right on timein a Kia Carnival, complete with car seat, enough to fit the 6 of us comfortably. He was well prepared too, he had a spare windbreaker & a spare fleece jacket in case the weather turns, which it did.
Along the way, we chatted casually about Melbourne life & prices of apartments in the city (around AUD600k up), yes it's quite Singaporean to do so yeah. John told us about life in Geelong, the town enroute to GOR, & how good schools & priximity to MB city made it a good place to stay. I thought, half an hour's travelling time to CBD is not too bad, it's like me now in Singapore.
The first stop was Torquay, apparently the birthplace of surf & where brands like Billabong etc come from. We passed rows of pretty houses that looked like holiday chalets yet big & livable enough for long term. There was a factory outlet kinda setup in the town where John says surfers can spend the entire day shopping for wetsuits & boards. I was charmed by the holiday feel of the small town, indeed many Australians flock here for holiday in the summer, & many to have their virgin experience at surfing in the sheltered bay in Torquay.
It was raining when we arrived at the beach, but we could see how beautiful the beach might be on a good day. It looked like just the place for a retreat. As we drove off, we saw a man in tees & shorts jogging. The temperature was probably 15 deg or less with wind & rain. Shudders.
Less than half hour's drive away is Bells Beach, the surf capital, & where the annual international surf competition is held. John pointed to the spot where the pro surfers showed their stuff & described his own experience surfing there: '..because there is no real beach, you had to descend a steep flight of steps with your board, & hop onto the choppy waves. I tried that when I was young & I wondered why did I do this, was pretty scary.' We looked & saw chopy waves crashing into a cliff. Yup, that was where they surfed. Sharks are not uncommon in these areas too, I was told.
The GOR was built during the depression, where the need to provide work coupled with the need to link up towns to the city spurred its construction. John told of the houses that used to stand near the coast, but were destroyed during the last bushfire. Now, houses that remain cannot be sold, it will be returned to the government when the next inheritant passes on. Hope I got that fact correct.
Shortly after, we stopped at Airey's Inlet, which holds a lighthouse that's part of a network of lighthouses working on automation to guide ships entering the narrow waterways of Port Philip into MB ports, known as "threading the needle". There had been many shipwrecks in that part of the coast in history. The lights are now automated but volunteers continue to visit the lighthouses for regular maintenance, John's nephew being one of them. I'm kinda amazed that people would actually volunteer for these, nobody really sees you doing it, there's little recognition, & it's quite a chore driving up to the deserted place, so this is truly volunteering. I wonder how many in Singapore would do it.
We stopped for coffee in a nice cottage run by a couple, & the coffee lived up to John's description. We walked to the lighthouse some 200m away in rain & wind, for our first photo op.
It was there we discovered our boy is really an adventurer, not afraid of rain or cold. He is as hardy as his Dad. It was probably below 15 deg with the sea wind & all. Here, he insists on walking...no holding hands. The Daddy scrambles to keep a hand on him.
John tells us this weather is in his own opinion the best way of seeing the GOR, with the treacherous winds & waves. This is the Southern Ocean, the GOR coast being the first coast north of Antartica, with nothing in between. I was awed.
About an hour further up we stopped at Apollo Bay, the place where fresh fish were caught, cooked & sold to the locals & not exported elsewhere. It was still drizzling & we braved the winds to settle in a cosy couple-run restaurant. It was too bad we didn't have fish & chips, though the hearty home-cooked sandwiches & pies & our first free wi-fi made it up.
We took a turn into the forests of Otway National Park that hugs part of the GOR, & the farms that surrounding. When we emerged, it was at the site of the 12 Aspostles. These standalone ruck formations were a result of many years of the elements shearing away at the rock, leaving parts to crumble & others to continue facing the wind & waves. This process continues till today, where we have only 9 apostles left, & who knows how many will still be standing by the time Ian come back?
Here, Ian looks pensively out to sea while John relates stories of the ocean & Daddy regrets not bringing his windbreaker out.
There were well-organsied walkways on the cliffs for as close a viewing as possible.
The rocks were awesome & you can still see coloured layers & the fault lines. Nearby, helicopters were bringing tourists up for aerial views every other minute, which was what occupied Ian that entire time.
A short drive away was a bay which tells the amazing story of how a shipwreck survivor was washed ashore, saw another girl hanging onto a floating mast, managed to bring her on land, nursed her in a cave, & climbed up the cliffs to get help from a not so nearby farmhouse. The cliffs were almost vertical so it's anyone's guess how he made it up. The shipwreck cost 50 over lives, mainly Irish immigrants, & they're now buried in a adjacent graveyard & memorial.
We left GOR & drove back through the inland roads for about 2-3 hours. When we were not sleeping, we interviewed John about politics & taxes in Melbourne (tax is 40%+!!) & what he did before retiring. My picture of MB as a well-run city continues to be reinforced through John's sharing.
We arrived back in the hotel at 7pm+, just as planned. It was a memorable day for me, GOR with its wild & wet weather, scenic towns quiet forests.